Founded in 1877 by Rafael López de Heredia and now run by his winemaking granddaughter María José, this striking bodega with its Art Nouveau tower, underground tunnels and ageing cellars of solid rock beneath a hill right next to the Ebro River in Haro's Barrio de la Estación is one of the three oldest wineries in Rioja. Still rigorously traditional in its methods - the bodega not only makes all its own barrels (has some 15,000!) but also ferments all its wines in wood - the majority of its grapes come from 170 hectares of adjoining family vineyards: Viña Tondonia, Viña Bosconia, Viña Cubillo and Viña Zaconia.
These are planted in a proportion of 50% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 10% Graciano and 10% Mazuelo; and have given their names to the wines, which are universally elegant, surprisingly fresh, and extremely fine.
The Reservas tend to be released in their 6th year, the Gran Reservas in their 9th, and Viña Cubillo in its 3rd - so if unfamiliar with these gloriously old-fashioned offerings, the latter is a good place to begin! The final rule of thumb is that the Bosconias are fuller and broader in taste than the Tondonias though the latter tend to have more acidity. One possible reason for this is that Viña Tondonia lies in the wettest, coolest zone of the Rioja.
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