Neuquén is a sizeable, rambling provincial town about an hour south of Buenos Aires by plane on the northern fringes of brown, desertic Patagonia - which runs thousands of miles south and should be high on everyone's wish list of places to explore; and its vineyards, some 30 minutes out of town, form part of a small oasis bounded by a major river and a series of manmade canals. The Schroeder family came here in 1927, own a medical clinic, local newspaper and are also in the fruit business - this is a major cherry growing area.
They are, more relevantly, one of five wine producers who have decided to prove that this area is capable of producing high quality wines; planted an initial 140 hectares in 2001 and are already exporting 55% of their production to 17 countries.
The yields are approx. 7000 kilos a hectare; the 75 million year old soil relatively poor in organic material; the light plentiful; the wind providing excellent ventilation yet the vineyards protected by walls of trees; the scant rainfall usually limited to the Spring; the day/night temperature gap some 20 degrees; the berries small, thick and attaining full ripeness with plenty of natural acidity; the light, airy, modern winery built on a hill in order that gravity be a key element.
Roberto Schroeder manages all the family's agricultural interests with a small but capable crew, but it is winemaker Leonardo who is the king of the vineyards, selecting, supervising, green harvesting some 15 to 30% of the crop, and forever experimenting with different clones; and he is to be congratulated for his judicious use of (primarily) French oak.
2007 was difficult, with one mega frost just before the harvest; yet the quality is impeccable – the Sauvignons spare and elegant, the Chardonnays aromatic and full of energy; the Pinots bright and replete with raspberry flavours; the Cabernets dark, structured and blackcurranty; the Malbecs fresh but licoricey with tangy black fruit and signature overtones of pencil lead.
Top of the tree, in quite different ways, are the very fine, unctuously French oaked black and red berry scented super-cuvée Familia Schroeder
Pinot/Malbec 03/04 and the limited production charmat-method, sparkling Deseado 07 - made entirely of Torrontés - with its irresistible flavours of fresh grapes, lychee, kiwi, and even a dash of pineapple.
In all, a breath of fresh air.
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