Guelbenzu

Having abdicated from Navarra DO in 2001, embarked on a new Aragonese winery in La Lombana that very same year, created their own DO, and gone into a Chilean joint enterprise, things were looking pretty stretched here for a while. Chile is now over, the winery one of many hoovered up by Concha y Toro in their ongoing quest for ever more wine; and with only 2 wineries to look after and a clutch of good quality recent Spanish vintages under his belt, things are definitely looking up for Ricardo Guelbenzu. The original Cascante vineyards supplemented by those in Vierlas produce ever better fruit; and the wines have found their balance again. Good Lord - even Robert Parker now likes them, awarding them points in the low 90s: of 05 Vierlas - 'Syrah, Tempranillo, and Garnacha aged for 3 months in a mix of new and used French oak. Purple colored, it has a fruity, expressive nose of grilled meat, vanilla spice, cherry, and blackberry that jumps from the glass. Medium-bodied with an abundance of fruit, this tasty wine is well balanced and can be drunk now and over the next 3-4 years.

It is outstanding value;’. Of 05 Evo 'a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Merlot aged for 12 months in new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it reveals aromas of pain grille, mineral, spice box, tobacco, black currant, and blackberry. On the palate the wine is currently a bit austere but appears to be in balance with ample fruit behind the structure.

 It will profit from 5-7 years of additional bottle age and drink well through 2025, and of top cuvée 2001 Lautus: '50% Tempranillo, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, dense ruby/purple-tinged, offers ripe aromas of figs, plums, black currants, forest floor, and oak. Silky tannin, a soft, supple texture, loads of fruit, medium to full body, and a savory mouthfeel suggest it will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-6 years.

This is a very wellmade effort.' Even Ricardo's newest style - the 2005 Lombana (a blend of 50% Graciano, 25% Tempranillo, and 25% Syrah sourced from a single vineyard and aged in barrel for 12 months) - finds favour: 'Deep crimson-colored, it offers up a floral nose with notes of cedar, smoke, blackberry, and blueberry.

This is followed by an elegant wine with plenty of ripe fruit, enough tannin to support 3-5 years of additional bottle age, and a long, pure finish. It should be at its best between 2012 and 2020.’