On a recent visit to this emblematic cellar, we watched how they were replacing old casks for new ones. What do they do with the used ones? They sell them to whisky producers in Scotland for maturation purposes. So next time you have a sip of your favourite whisky, who knows if you are also sampling a tiny drop of Valdespino history! Valdespino is one of the oldest wineries in Jerez de la Frontera, which was liberated from the moors in 1264 by King Alfonso X and his knights. One of them, Don Alfonso Valdespino, was rewarded with land for his bravery and loyalty during the reconquest of the town and ever since then the Valdespino name has been indissolubly connected to wine.
The winery was acquired by the Estévez family in the year 2000, who asked renowned winemaker Eduardo Ojeda to ensure that the firm's legendary quality was maintained and even improved and he has definitely excelled in that role, nurturing his beloved soleras (the traditional maturing system in Jerez consisting of rows of stacked casks - criaderas - of different ages) with historical names like Coliseo and Cardenal containing priceless nectar. Eduardo has researched the story behind some of these names: "According to a 19th century document from Miguel Valdespino, Palo Cortado was exported to Ireland for Cardinal Salis. Since then, the solera for this sherry has been named Palo Cortado Cardenal". The characteristic calcareous soil in the region is known as albariza; white and porous, it retains all essential moisture as in Jerez it rains less than 40 days a year. Valdespino owns 400 hectares including the vineyards of Macharnudo, considered the best growing zone in Jerez; with the primary grape the locally adapted Palomino Fino. Our premium range has recently expanded with the addition of Palo Cortado Viejo C.P.
These initials refer to Calle Ponce (Ponce Street), which is located in the town centre and where Valdespino purchased a very traditional bodega in the '60s. Casks from that cellar were used to start the solera of Palo Cortado Viejo. This solera has been kept alive refreshing its youngest casks with wine from a very small and careful selection of barrels containing exceptional quality Inocente. C.P. rarely leaves the cellar and only a few bottles are released every year for private consumption. With an estimated age of more than 25 years, its life does not end here as its solera is used to refresh the youngest cask of the majestic Cardenal.
We are delighted to report that small-scale as it may be, our experience is that there is a major resurgence of interest in quality such as this. With so many terrific and characterful wines, there is not enough room to describe them all but some highlights include: Fino Inocente: Produced from a single vineyard (Macharnudo), and a rare example of Fino fermented in cask prior to undergoing Solera maturation for more than 8 years. Crisp and exceptionally fragrant. Tío Diego Amontillado: Macharnudo fruit is fermented in oak and aged for more than 15 years. Amber coloured, this wine is dry, well-balanced and complex. Contrabandista Amontillado: This is significantly darker than Tío Diego by virtue of added must and a touch PX. Fascinating aromas of caramel, roasted nuts and an emphatic bitter sweet tang. Round, elegant, and most appealing.
Solera 1842: Around 30 years old, this savoury Oloroso offers pronounced and concentrated flavours of almonds and caramel wrapped up in an agreeably subtle sweetness. Mouthfilling and breathtakingly long. Palo Cortado Viejo C.P.: Restrained and initially showing shyness on the nose, aromas of dried figs, salty almonds and walnuts are gradually released to finish with intensely deep yeasty and savoury notes. Palo Cortado Cardenal: Vibrant and racy, this delivers an irresistible mélange of dried fruits, savoury elements and tangy spice. Aged for more than 30 years, it is long and rewarding. PX El Candado: Sweet yet by no means cloying thanks to its excellent, fresh, well balanced acidity, El Candado (the padlock) is a fusion of liquid figs and concentrated hazelnuts. Amontillado Coliseo: Over 30 years old, this kicks off with a striking, unmistakeable aroma of coconut, yet on the palate is pure, austere, salty sandalwood - apparently owing to its base being Manzanilla. Try it with Roquefort!
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